Tag: hamr

Sending Sounds into Space

Sending Sounds into Space

Early in 2018 the club was contacted by artist Sian Hutchings who was in her first year of a masters degree in fine arts at Northumbria University, Newcastle and she wanted some help with a project that was going to come to a head with an event at the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art in Gateshead on the 15th March.

The club is no stranger to working with artists having previously been involved with the Waygood group and an event called Scatter in the AV08 Festival involving artist Marco Pelijhan again at the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art in 2008.

Anyway Sian’s project centered around the ‘Voyager Golden Record’ which were two phonograph records that were included aboard both Voyager spacecraft launched in 1977. The records contain sounds and images selected to portray the diversity of life and culture on Earth, and are intended for any intelligent extraterrestrial life form, or for future humans, who may find them. The records are considered as a sort of a time capsule.

Sian wanted to update the recordings stating that she considered the recordings didn’t reflect the way we live in the 21st century and weren’t a true reflection of modern society.

Sian planned to record an updated version of the golden record and transmit the recording herself so she contacted the RSGB to find out how she could do this. Sian was informed that she would have to complete the Foundation licence course in order to do this and due to her timescale it wasn’t a feasible thing to do. The RSGB did suggest that she contact a local amateur radio club to see if they could help and gave her our contact details, in due course Sian did contact us which resulted in Glen and I going into Newcastle to have a meeting with her at her studio.

At the meeting Sian outlined her idea to update the golden record and Glen and I told her how we could help which basically meant that we would be able to transmit her recordings, also we would be able to let her see the transmission via an SDR radio receiver but this would all be dependant on whereabouts in the Baltic we would be based in relation to siting antennas. A follow up meeting at the Baltic was arranged and I took a dual band 2m/70cm antenna to show Sian what we might use as Glen thought that 70cm might be a better frequency to use as trying to find another amateur on the band was as likely as finding teeth in a hen and it therefore hopefully wouldn’t cause any disruption to what Sian wanted to do, also it is a frequency that is suited to satellite (space) communication. We also took along a couple of radios to test the suitability of the location.

We were to be sited on the first floor and there weren’t a lot of options for feeding coax to the exterior and then onto the roof to feed antennas, it was decided to set up in the outside lobby area and fire the radio signal out of the glass windows running the full height of the building. This would be an easier option as we were right in the heart of the building and all other options quite frankly would have been a nightmare to sort out. 

Having completed the recce Glen and I had a better idea of what we could offer, Sian arranged workshops to record the sounds and on the allotted day Glen and I arrived at the Baltic in the afternoon and set up our station which consisted of my 70cm yagi antenna that was mounted on a microphone stand angled at about 45 degrees to the horizon, Glen’s Yaesu FT 817nd provided the transmit option along with a laptop which used a USB drive with the recordings provided by Sian from her workshops. I took along my SDRPlay RSP1 software defined radio to receive the transmitted signal and projected it onto the large screen in the cinema for a visual effect.

Sian was given a handheld transceiver to start each transmission using with the callsign that had been applied for GB8NOE, this related to our 2008 involvement at the Baltic and there is an 8 in 2018 (very tenuous I know). The letters related to the name of the group of artists also involved with Sian called the Noematic Collective.  

Sian transmitted four three minute recordings of sounds from her workshops and the people at the event were able to move between the theatre where I was projecting the image of the received signal from my SDR receiver and the corridor area where Glen was at the transmitting end of things.  There was an additional twist a vinyl recording was made of Sian’s recordings on an original recording machine from around 1930 I believe.

The event seemed to go well and Sian was very happy with the way that things went, the people attending also enjoyed it as well.

Check out our video page to see Sian’s video of the event.





73’s Graham M0GAE






FT8 – The Basics

FT8 – The Basics

It has been around for a while now and the protocol itself has undergone some radical changes recently so what’s all the fuss about, and is it actually worth bothering with?

Ham Radio digital modes are a bit like Marmite, you either love them or you hate them and FT8 is no exception to this rule, well that’s not strictly true because FT8 has come in for it’s fair share of stick over recent times due to it’s quick and dirty QSO method. Basically FT8 has a very stripped back QSO exchange that only actually comprises of CQ Call, a signal strength exchange and a confirmation.

FT8 was developed by Joe Taylor K1JT and amateurs typically use it as part of the WSJTX software package which can be downloaded from here

Here is a typical conversation over FT8:

“CQ G0SBN IO95”  CQ call from G0SBN
G0SBN 2E0EFP IO95” 2E0EFP replies with their location
0SBN +06” G0SBN responds with a signal report
G0SBN 2E0EFP R-02”
2E0EFP confirms signal report & replies with his own report
 says Reception Report Received, Goodbye
G0SBN 2E0EFP 73” 
2E0EFP says Best regards

Each message of up to 13 characters takes 13 seconds to send. There are 4 slots per minute, and your transmission  block lasts for 15 seconds, then the software listens for any replies for 15 seconds, and so on. A typical exchange above takes around 90 seconds to complete. Great ! You’re thinking I can get loads of DX in a short window, and that is indeed a fact but it’s quite devoid of any user interaction. This is where some amateurs seem to have an issue because it’s basically M2M (Machine to Machine) transactions and can actually be automated so the operator needn’t even be in front of his radio / shack PC to stack up a load of QSO’s

Is that cheating ? You decide !

So I am guessing by now the burning question is how do I get into this brave new world and make some QSO’s ?

Now this isn’t going to be a full on guide on how to setup your radio for FT8 but I will share some details on some tips I have found during my setup etc. As a minimum you will need the following:

A shack PC, (WSJTX Can be ran on Windows, MAC OSX, Linux)
An audio interface from your shack PC to you radio
Optional CAT Control of radio from shack PC

As well the above you should check the following settings on the radio, AGC is off, Data mode is ON and the SSB mode is USB. Most FT8 or digital modes in general users normally say the ALC should not be invoked by the radio when transmitting.

Now there is a little bit of PC jiggery pokery required here to ensure your shack PC can hear the signals coming from your radio (via the mic input) and can also send the data signals to the radio via the speakers output. Withregards to the ALC invocation, I would normally set the sound card input level on the radio to a fairly low setting and then set the shack PC speaker volume manually when transmitting to make sure the ALC is not being triggered.

Similarly with the reception of signals, you don’t want the RF from the radio overloading and clipping the audio into the PC, so again check your Mic level on your sound card and monitor the received signal on WSJTX to ensure that the reception signal is around -60dbm.

Have a look at the bottom left on the image to see the received signal strength.





As well as the operating system tweaks for the audio output and recording levels there are some settings in WSJTX that need to be completed to tell the software which audio interfaces on the shack PC to use.

WSJT-X Settings screen (audio)
WSJT-X Settings screen (audio)
  • RIG – Radio interface settings – most common models of radio already have their comms settings built-in to WSJT-X, so simply select your radio.
  • CAT CONTROL – Connecting to the radio’s CAT/DATA port for controlling the radio. Typically the interface will appear as a serial COM port.
  • PTT – So that the PC can put the radio into transmit, the software needs to know how to trigger Transmit. Often this will be a separate COM port that needs setting up in the software
WSJT-X Settings screen (radio / PTT)
WSJT-X Settings screen (audio)

As well as the audio settings, Your computer’s clock does have to be very accurate with FT8. I use the Dimension 4 for keeping my clock accurate. This runs in the background and uses NTP to keep your clock in-sync to one of the online atomic clock servers periodically.

Anyway give it a shot, even if you are a foundation licence holder you can make some great contacts using 10w and a modest antenna!

Enjoy your radio !


LiFePO4 Portable Power Kit

LiFePO4 Portable Power Kit

Recently I was researching an alternative to Sealed Lead Acid Batteries (SLAB), the cause of this research…back pain. While SLAB’s have performed ok for my car portable use, I was reminded just how heavy a 50AH SLAB is after straining my back putting it back on the shelf. So having seen a number of posts and videos on the Internet about the weight advantage I needed to give alternatives some serious thought.

I suspect like me, many of you will have heard of Lithium batteries but what I hadn’t realised is that there are different types and specifications. I was looking for three things in a new battery; appropriate voltage for amateur radio use (13 to 14 volts), low voltage sag (little voltage drop when under load), and a high number of recharge cycles (reduced cost of ownership).

Lithium ChemistryNominal Voltage
(4 cells in series)
Recharge Cycles
Lithium Titanate9.6v3000-7000
Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminium Oxide 14.4v500
Lithium Cobalt Oxide14.4v500-1000
Lithium Manganese Oxide14.8v300-700
Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide14.8v1000-2000
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4)13.2v1000-2000


I hope you agree that Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) came out as the most suitable. I was also fortunate that while away on a DX’pedition to the Isle of Barra with Bob (M0KLO) he kindly lent me his KX3 and a small radio model style 13v LiFePO4 4.2AH battery pack to try. It was certainly compact in size, light weight, and an ability to maintain voltage during transmit but the total capacity of 4.2AH I felt was a bit small for what I had in mind. 

A battery of about 15AH seemed to be about the size suitable for my needs based on my initial transmit tests with a Yaesu FT-891 “field” radio which suggested about 8 amps on transmit was a good target if I wanted 3 hours of operating time on a single charge. Remember that this is not an exact science as less current is drawn when listening as to transmitting and whether you use CW, Data, or SSB.

A search on the Internet provided a range of options from which I produced a shortlist:

  1. “radio control” style soft battery packs to make up a battery of 17AH. Various comments on the Internet suggested quality control of these packs is variable. Costs today (Mar’2018) for a 8.4AH pack is £ 52.83 + p/p. Due to the manufacturing process if one of the internal cells develops a fault the whole battery is a right off. Requires a balance charger to maintain cells. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-8400mah-4s2p-30c-lifepo4-pack-xt90.html


  1. Electric Golf Cart suppliers have a good selection of LiFePO4 batteries in capacities from 15-40AH available with chargers and 3-5 year guarantees. Mainly sealed units with an internal Battery Management System (BMS), while this is perhaps convenient it has the drawback that if a cell or the BMS develops a fault the battery may be a right off. Generally supplied with a simple charger. Costs depending on capacity and warranty term but are generally £150  to £300 per unit. NB: Always double check golf cart batteries, are they definitely LiFePO4?www.topcaddy.co.uk/category/batteries/lithium-batteries/


  1. Electric Bikes commonly use LiFePO4 packs of various sizes (8,10,12,15AH), individual cells can be purchased and made into a pack. All of the required components can be purchased online or from an electric bike components supplier. Costs increase as cells capacity increases. For 4x15AH cells + cable bits to make 13.2 battery (Mar’2018) approximately £100. Simple chargers are available similar to the ones provided by the Golf Cart suppliers, but would recommend radio model style balance chargers suitable for LiFePO4 batteries.
    LiFePO4 (UK) Battery supplier
    ISDT T6 LiFePO4 charger
    ISDT Battery Checker


I decided on option 3, if there was a problem with an individual cell I could replace it at minimum cost and it allowed me to take control of the management of the battery pack and individual cells. As a self-build I could also choose on different form-factors depending on requirements and components. It is also a simple task to increase the capacity of the pack by putting another one in parallel if needed at a later date. I also purchased a radio control style charger (ISDT T6).  This charger provides greater control of charging and also includes storage charge and discharge options and very importantly it allows charging of cells without a balance lead connected as I would be Bottom Balancing. Note that some LiFePO4 chargers will refuse to work without a balance lead connected. I also purchased the ISDT Battery Checker for more precise measurement of individual cell voltages on charge, storage, and discharge.

The rationale for bottom balancing is that I want the cells to converge to the same state of charge when discharged, before use and I charge the whole battery as one, rather than have the charger bulk charging the cells and top balancing them when using balance leads. I’ve included the following YouTube links for the background to bottom balance and not using a BMS. 

Bottom or Top Balancing

One example of how to Bottom Balance a battery pack

To achieve bottom balance I discharged the individual cells to 2.7 volts each and measured the voltage variation (after a settling period of 24hr) between the cells using the ISDT Battery Checker via the balance leads to achieve a variation between cells of a couple of mV. I then charged the cells to 3.4 volts per cell using the chargers (ISDT T6) upper storage charge setting of 3.4v and a charge current of 1/10th the pack capacity i.e 15AH divided by 10 = 1.5 Amps. The cell voltage variation at 3.4v across the pack was 8mV. I’ve found that if the individual cell charge voltage is increased to 3.6v, the cell voltage difference will also increase to 100+ mV. Also if the charge current is increased for example to 5A then the cell voltage variation will increase at top of charge. This in itself is not a problem and is predicted however monitor the voltage to make sure no individual cell goes beyond the 3.6v manufacturers specification.

My final choice was for 2×2 rather than the 4×1 cell pack, mainly because it fits neatly into a box that I subsequently purchased and it also fits better the compartment underneath the boot-floor of my car. The red/black leads with PowerPoles fitted are for the high current connection to the radio, and are also used when charging and discharging, the white leads are the low current balance leads that are used for voltage monitoring. If the ISDT T6 Lite is used to perform a discharge the balance leads are connected and the T6 will not let a cell go below 2.8v. While using the battery pack with my radio a small voltmeter is connected to the balance leads which cycles continually indicating pack and individual cell voltages during use. The audible alarm is set to 2.7v, if any cell reaches this lower limit an alarm sounds and I stop transmitting and disconnect the battery to prevent further discharge. After use the pack gets a storage charge and stored in a dry and cool place in the garage. 

Enjoy your radio
Glen G0SBN/P

Amateur Radio with a Clansman PRC351 / PRC352

Amateur Radio with a Clansman PRC351 / PRC352

This particular radio consists of a transceiver, a 24 volt battery, an antenna tuning unit, a 20 watt amplifier, a telephone style handset and a combat whip antenna.

Why does this Clansman have the number 351 and 352? Well it all depends on whether the amplifier is attached. The 20 watt amplifier on the right of the picture above, the one with the heat dissipation fins, is what turns the PRC351 into a PRC352. Note that when connecting the amplifier the whip antenna can no longer be used, it requires a ground spike, and a resonant antenna such as a dipole or the Land Rover FFR Antenna Tuning Module and Whip. Also remember that the output with amplifier is 20 watts so it exceeds the maximum permitted power limit of a UK Foundation Licence.

The transceiver unit of the PRC351 provides an RF output of 4 watts on transmit, with a frequency range of 30 MHz up to 75.975 MHz NFM. So for Amateur Radio I plan to use the PRC351 on the 4m and 6m bands NFM segments of the UK band plan.

But before I start I need to assemble the separate components that make up the radio and make sure it works. Having completed the PRC351 assembly I planned to confirm the operating frequencies of the PRC351 on 4m and 6m with a SDR receiver. I tuned the SDR to 52.000mhz (6m) and tuned the PRC351 using the frequency control knobs. I then set the “ON” knob to the “*” position to remove any squelch, and selected the “L” setting for local. The next step is to match the antenna with the radio’s ATU, the ATU is designed to provide tuning to the whip when fitted. On completion I pressed the PTT button on the telephone handset. Unfortunately I noticed that there was a noticeable buzzing sound and no transmitted audio.

On close inspection of the telephone handset the probable cause was clear to see, the microphone mouth piece slots were full of mud. I stripped the handset and cleaned away any debris and gave the speaker and microphone a check over using the multi meter. Now that the handset was reassembled, another test, and I had audio, however there was still an annoying buzz. I did a bit of research on the Internet and it turns out that the PRC351 radio has tone squelch of 150khz. I haven’t found any information so far on how to disable the feature, so I plan to use the PRC351 with the squelch OFF as the background noise isn’t too offensive through the handset, and inhibit the tone as much as possible during transmit.

 To do this the unit needs to be opened which is simply undoing 8 Allen bolts, being very careful not to damage the internal brown ribbon cable while removing the end panel and unplugging it. Once apart disabling the 150khz tone is quite simple, locate the module “13” and gently turn pot “R9” fully ant-clockwise. Now that the PRC351 is re-assembled I conducted another transmission test, The SDR demonstrated it was on frequency and with clear modulation, and no annoying 150khz tone.


If you’re like me now’s the opportunity to tidy up the radio with a quick clean and paint job, gently removing the labels to be re-applied later.

Power to the PRC351 is from a Nickel Cadmium rechargeable battery pack which includes a “state of charge” indicator. The label on the battery provides some relevant battery information and a date of manufacture of 2005, so I’ll probably replace the cells in the pack with new lithium equivalents and include a charging circuit.


Hope to hear you on the 4m or 6m bands using my refurbished PRC351…


A Tank For An Antenna

A Tank For An Antenna


At one of the meetings of the Tynemouth Amateur Radio Club in the spring of 2006 somebody brought along some a few bits and bobs to pass on if any body could make use of them and at the end of the evening there was a green rod left.

I picked it up and was examining it when one of the members told me that it was a section of a Tank Antenna and I needed 4 sections to make an antenna for use on the Amateur bands. He told me to take it and to hold onto it as I would only need three more sections to be up and running.

A short while late I received a call from the same club member to say that he had a complete Tank Antenna and if I was interested in it I could have it for a donation to club funds.

I hot footed it around to his house and made a donation in exchange for it, the Tank antenna as previously outlined consisted of four rod sections, a top, middle and two bottom sections which measured about 4.9 metres when fitted together. The sections are constructed out of sprung steel (so I’m told), given a copper coating and painted green. They have a short broad thread on them and are pushed together and given a quick twist to join together.


Having bought my Tank Antenna, I now had to figure out how I was going to mount it.

Another club member had a spare mount which he gave me. This consisted of a short metal tube that the Antenna fits into, a metal collett that tightens to secure the Antenna, and all this is mounted onto an insulator which is about three quarters of an inch in diameter and a couple of inches long.

For several weeks I pondered on how I was going to mount the Antenna with or without the mount that I’d been given. While looking at mounting options in my garden one thing that really struck me was that it has a low impact visually.

I now had to decide how I was going to mount it. Looking on the internet you will see vertical antennas on the market that are mounted close to ground level so that was an option. There is a lot said about Stealth Antennas and I thought that it might be a good antenna to mount at the top of the fence and couple it to an auto ATU.

In June 2006 a couple of us from the radio club decided to go out for the day and play radio, it was planned to go to a farm that we have been lucky to gain permission to use for our various field days.

With this planned it made me work a bit quicker to sort out a way of mounting the Antenna.

Looking at the insulator there is a hole underneath and I wondered if it would sit on top of a section of fishing Pole. It would but there would be too much flex and it would probably fall to the ground. The insulator would fit inside a Swaged pole and also inside a section of fishing pole.

I had a couple of spare sections off a fishing pole that was broken as a result of my son using the pole to retrieve his Frisbee out of a tree, he took it apart and put it back together again the wrong way around and trying to sort it out damaged a few sections of the pole, so I now had two spare sections.

I decided to mount the antenna at ground level and cut one of the poles down and fitted the mount inside. I had a Ground Spike from another manufactured Portable Antenna, so I decided to use that, and the Pole fits nicely inside the tube attached to the ground spike.

The Antenna was now mounted and supported.


The next thing that the Antenna needed was Radials.

The Antenna is about 4.9 metres long, so you don’t have to think too hard to work out that it was around a quarter of 20 Metres. Thinking back to a talk given by the Chairman of the club at the time on ground planes and radials I remembered various points discussed and using these principles I made up 12 radials. In the talk given to the club it was mentioned that a good number of radials to use was 120. I couldn’t manage 120 so I decided on 12.

I mounted the radials on a bolt that was connected to a short earthing strap and that would then be attached to the Spike or Pole. I have a SOTA beam which comes with a length of coax with a BNC connector on one end and lengths of wire soldered to the centre core and outer braid of the coax cable with crocodile clips attached to clip onto the antenna. I had made up another similar length of coax with a PL 259 plug on the end, so I used this and connected the centre core of the coax to the metal collet on the antenna mount and the outer braid to the earthing strap which was connected to the radials.

I made the radials slightly longer than the antenna with the intention of folding them back until I got the SWR right and I would then cut them to length. I attached automotive connectors onto the radials in order to thread them onto the bolt.



On the 8th June2006 along with the other two members of the club Tony and Glen we went to the Farm to play with our Radios and Antennas.

The three of us have Yaesu FT 817’s and we were going to have a QRP day.

I took along the Antenna, my 817, an SWR meter, an ATU and a small amplifier because on my previous attempt at portable QRP operating I didn’t have any success with SSB with the antenna that I used on that day and I had people who were using higher power bleeding over the top of me (Glen).

To power this entire set up I also took along a Leisure Battery, over the top I know but I wasn’t going to take any chances and if I wasn’t successful with the QRP I was going to use the amplifier, so the extra power would be handy.

I set the Antenna up, connected it to the radio and switched on. Immediately I was receiving good clear strong signals.

I hooked up my SWR meter and checked the SWR and it appeared to be spot on, the needle only moved a fraction on the meter.

I called Tony and Glen over and checked the SWR again to show them how good it was (I expected to be fiddling on with the radials for some time to get the SWR right).

When the needle hardly moved Glen said,

It’s broken”.

I kept the SWR meter connected to the radio, but I could have actually removed it.

I made only made 12 contacts but at a fairly leisurely pace, it was also a social event with plenty of chat.

My first contact came after a couple of CQ calls and was with Ian G3PHD in Tilbury, Essex who gave me a 5 & 7. I had one 59 report, a couple of 57 and a lot of 55 reports which when you actually take time to understand the RST system of reporting 5 by 5 reports are perfectly satisfactory. On this first outing I contacted a German station DQ2006S who gave me a 55 report and he obviously found it hard to believe I was running only 5 watts, he kept asking me to confirm I was QRP I confirmed it and he came back to tell me that he was running 500 watts.

As a fun club event on the 15th of July that year a few of us organised a QRP Barbecue come QRP competition. The basic idea was that we would have a day out at the farm, do some operating and have a barbecue. The competition side of events was that Glen erected a wire dipole for 40 metres and I took along the Tank antenna for 20 metres and we both took our 817’s. Competitors would have a 15-minute slot on each antenna and the person with the most contacts was the winner. There was an adjudicator sitting with each competitor to verify the number of contacts.

It was a great day out with fantastic weather, good food (if I do say so myself), good company and overall it was good fun.


Since that first outing and success with my antenna I have made another coax lead with automotive connectors on to tidy up the connection between the coax and the antenna, I have also tidied up the connection with the radials. I have also shortened the section of fishing pole which sits inside the ground spike, it was initially too long and one windy day with it moving about it split the fibreglass tube and fell over. Lowering it takes away that strain on the tubing.

During another day out on the farm in mid-February 2007, my first contact of the day was with PT7CB in Brazil! Wow I was over the moon; this was using the internal batteries on the 817. I also had a contact with CN8PA in Casablanca which was a first for me, so I was also very pleased with that.

Initially the Antenna was not intended to be used solely for QRP and it could certainly be used with more power or as a home base antenna, but I get such a buzz from making a contact using it on QRP that I am now totally hooked, and I would always keep sure that I have a Tank antenna for portable work.

Coming up to date in August 2018 twelve years on from when I first used the antenna.

I still have the antenna; the connections and radials are still working perfectly, and it has been used on many occasions at various power levels. The only further development that I have made with it is a tripod mount for use when I’m on a hard surface and cannot hammer the ground spike into the ground. It is a camera tripod that I was given with the tilt/mounting head on a central pillar that can be raised or lowered in the tripod. I simply took the tilt head off and the section of fishing pole with the antenna mount attached slides over the top of the pillar.

If you have a moment come and ask me about my Tank antenna, I’ll be only too pleased to tell you about it.

Enjoy your radio… 







Graham M0GAE



SOTA – Scafell Pike

SOTA – Scafell Pike

So today was an education, in more ways than one. First lesson was never trust your brother in law when he says we’re going out for a walk in the lakes, come along bring your radio; it not going to be anything heavy duty… Second lesson was always be prepared, and if there are ‘two’ SOTA summits nearby make sure you activate both of them; now remember this as I did actually say ‘two’ summits. 

So it was a 3:30 am start, now this in itself is not a good start. I don’t do early mornings but this is the middle of the flipping night man ! Anyway we headed off to the lakes and duly ended up at the Wastwater car park around 7am. We then set off for Scafell. 


Chris (my brother in law) had a plan to ‘not take the normal’ routes and to try and get to the summit via what looked like a gulley called ‘Lords Rake’ which all seemed feasible. After all he had it planned and we had a map etc.. Happy days. 

Some where along the way we got kind off track as it were and actually ended up on the opposite side of the gulley to Lords Rake, what did that mean.. well. It meant we had to scale to the summit of Scafell via what I believe is called ‘Deep Crag’. This wasn’t exactly walking it was more like rock climbing! The walls of the crag were wet and slippery from the night before and this made even more sketchy.

That said, we made it ! The celebration at the top was part elation and part relief! 

So about the radio / SOTA stuff, well remember I said ‘two summits’ right?

Well Scafell was in the SOTA database as G/LD-002 and I operated from the top and activated this ‘summit’ with about 6 contacts as we only had a very brief time up there before heading on…Where to you ask ?

Well across the way we could see Scafell Pike and the plan was to get across there and then come back via Lingmell Gill. 

Now Scafell Pike has quite a decent path defined up from the valley floor and doesn’t look to be too much of a climb, the only issue was we were not on the valley floor we were on Scafell. This link here will give you and idea of what we had to come.. 

We headed off Scafell and duly made our way back to Lords Rake which was just over from where we climbed up deep crag to get to the first summit, and yes you guessed it we had to descend Lords Rake… Not good. Very precarious with lots of loose rock and slippery surfaces with next to no hand holds. 

That said we managed it, scary ? Yes. Hard work? Yes. We then headed off to Scafell Pike via Mickledoor which wasn’t too bad and gave us some great views! Scafell Pike is a 10 point summit (G/LLD-001) which actually has a fairly well defined path up to it that attracts lots of visitors. Except we decided to take the brother in laws scenic route as I have said! Once at the top I didn’t have long as we had planned to descend via Lingmell and we had yet to eat lunch!

Never the less 2M came good and I managed 9 contacts total with 1 summit to summit contact with David (G0EVV/P) who was on G/LD-003.

So as it turns out Scafell is now NOT a SOTA summit despite it being more difficult to ascend than the pike and I only found this out when I got home and tried to upload my log. It has been DOWNGRADED ! to a hump in the HEMA Awards scheme. A Hump !! Can you believe that ! 

I’m glad I activated both peaks today or I would have 1 measly HEMA point for a 20 hour day out walking !! 

Here is the brief list of QSO’s for today 
MW6ISC : Op – Steve : Wales  
2E0MOW / M : Chris : Unknown 
G0EVV / P : Op – David : Helvellyn G/LD-003 (S2S) 
G6NHW / A : Op – Pete : Unknown 
M0LKO : Op – Andrew : Ulverston 
M6XVE : Op – Sheri : Ulverston 
G4YLB : Op – Jim : Unknown 
GM3 VMB : Op – Peter : Lockerbie 
2E0LDF : Op – Reg : Cockermouth 

Steve Nelson



M6OZA on ADSB Flight Tracking

M6OZA on ADSB Flight Tracking

So if you’re like me, a bit of a geek or maybe handy with technology, you’ve probably got drawers and shelves at home full of bits and bobs that “may come in useful one day”. This article is about how I made some of my “bits and bobs” into something quite useful…

I’ve always had an interest in radio, technology, and programming so when I was given a Raspberry Pi and a RTLSDR dongle for Christmas a few years ago I wanted to combine them into a radio project.

Up to this point the Raspberry Pi had spent a few short weeks being a Kodi box, and then a WiFi repeater, before being destined to the bottom drawer. My first experience of Software Defined Radio (SDR) was with the RTLSDR dongle, an entry level model, but it had done the trick of luring me back into radio monitoring and listening to shortwave. After a while I upgraded to a better model but having explorered everything I thought I could, it also ended up in the bottom drawer.

I’d started to acquire a small collection of old 1980’s – 1990’s Realistic scanners, these analogue scanners had served me well. Military air scanning had become “my thing” and I found myself scanning the frequencies after work listening to transmissions from practice flights off the North East coast. These flights were mainly controlled out of RAF Boulmer, not far from my location at the time. However, after a while I guess listening wasn’t enough and I was on the hunt to improve my setup when I came cross ADSB and MLAT aircraft tracking. I read up on the subject and eventually found an article that described how it was possible to use a Rasberry Pi and a RTLSDR dongle to make a suitable receiving station. I’ve included a link to the original article here.

I suggest you simply follow the instructions on the website to upload the software onto an sdcard and install it in your Rasberry Pi. All you then need to do is plug in your usb RTLSDR dongle and you’re ready to go.

So what type of antenna do I use, as the ADSB aircraft signals are on 1090MHz? As with a lot of things today the antenna can be purchased online, but why not make your own. You’ll need an empty beer can, if you don’t like beer a lager one will work just as well 🙂

The picture below is one I made. The beer can acts as a ground plane and the short vertical wire (1/4 wavelength long on 1090MHz) is connected to a sma connector.

The paint was just for practical reasons, to stop rain water shorting out the antenna to the can (groundplane). I happened to have Citroen saxo blue in the cupboard, but any colour will do. A blob of silicone around the connector would serve just as well. The measurements should you require them are: Antenna length 69mm, Can length 69mm.

For maximum receive range mount the antenna on a non-conductive mast, mine is on the chimney stack as a temporary measure. At this height I’m seeing a range of 100-150 miles from 200-350 tracked flights a day. It will work at ground level but range will be much shorter and the number of heard aircraft will be less.

Now I don’t only hear them I can see them as well…brilliant !

A year or  so down the line, I have now upgraded my system to include a flight-aware dongle to replace the RTLSDR, a 1090mhz pre amplifier, and I have upgraded the antenna to a high gain 8 section co-linear. Although not needed to get started, these upgrades have improved my receive capability significantly.


So don’t throw away your “bits and bobs” as they may come in useful one day. Have fun building your own ADSB receiver. If you liked this article please give it a thumbs up.

73 Ray M6OZA